Our beach is usually fairly quiet, north facing rather than east facing, so the prevailing swell has to round the point and slow down a little. I love to catch small waves, surfing in to the beach until my palms graze the sand. It feels as though I am speeding, water spraying up around me, a bow wave from my outstretched hands, the roar of the sea in my ears! The surf was not much good the last few days but we were playing around with the waterproof camera and took a few shots of the genteel surfer.
Yesterday afternoon was hot and sunny, so I wore my rash vest, not to prevent board rash but just to avoid having to apply sunscreen over so much of my body. This morning we swam early, before the sun was high so I did not use the vest.
Does it look like fun? It really is, a laughing kind of fun, with exhilaration and the sensation of all your cells dancing and laughing together! A great way to start the day, after a walk to the far end to observe all the scuttling, swaggering, fluttering beach life, all the fancy graffiti patterns painted on the sand by the currents of the day, all the bits and pieces thrown up by the rhythmic waves … just delightful. Wishing you a happy and laughing start to your day too!